Fit, knots, shoes
Menswear
The overshirt, the everyday watch, the first suit, the knots worth knowing.
51 live guides


How to Tie a Tie: Four Knots, a Dimple, and When to Knit
Four-in-hand is the weekday knot. Half-Windsor is the interview. Full Windsor fills a spread collar. The Oriental is the small knot that leaves you a tail. Match width to the lapel, pinch a dimple, and leave knits out of a Windsor.
8 min · how to tie a tie
Oxford vs Derby Shoes: Closed Lacing, Open Lacing, Last Shape
Oxfords hide the lacing under the vamp. Derbies sit the quarters on top. That one seam is the formality gap — and the reason derbies fit a high instep. The last under either one decides whether your foot is actually in the shoe.
8 min · oxford vs derby shoes
Blazer vs Sport Coat: Metal Buttons, Pattern, and Padding
A blazer is the navy jacket with metal buttons. A sport coat is the patterned odd jacket. Unstructured Italian construction is a different garment from a padded British one, even in the same colour.
8 min · blazer vs sport coat
Chinos vs Dress Pants: Twill, Wool, Break, Khaki vs Stone
Chinos are cotton twill. Dress pants are wool with a pressed crease. Hem both to a break that is a break, pick stone over dirty khaki, and do not wear chinos to court or a funeral.
7 min · chinos vs dress pants
Watch Size Guide: What Case Size Suits Your Wrist
Ignore the 42 mm default. Lug-to-lug and wrist circumference decide whether a watch looks like a watch or a hockey puck.
7 min · watch size guide wrist
Chelsea vs Chukka Boots: Which Should You Buy?
Elastic vs laces. Sleek vs informal. Both can be office-capable if the leather is right.
6 min · chelsea vs chukka bootsAll menswear guides
- How to Tie a Tie: Four Knots, a Dimple, and When to Knit8 min
- Oxford vs Derby Shoes: Closed Lacing, Open Lacing, Last Shape8 min
- Blazer vs Sport Coat: Metal Buttons, Pattern, and Padding8 min
- How to Buy Your First Suit (Navy, Two-Button, $400–800)9 min
- Chinos vs Dress Pants: Twill, Wool, Break, Khaki vs Stone7 min
- Watch Size Guide: What Case Size Suits Your Wrist7 min
- Chelsea vs Chukka Boots: Which Should You Buy?6 min
- Crew Neck vs V Neck Sweaters5 min
- Oxford vs Derby vs Loafer: Which Shoe to Buy First6 min
- How to Tie a Bow Tie: Butterfly, Batwing, and the Dimple Myth6 min
- Half-Windsor vs Four-in-Hand: Knot, Collar Gap, Fabric Used6 min
- How to Dimple a Tie: Pinch, Cinch, and What Not to Fold6 min
- Spread Collar vs Point Collar: Angle, Tie Knot, and Face Shape6 min
- When to Wear a Button-Down Collar (and When It Looks Lost)6 min
- White Shirt vs Light Blue Shirt: Which to Buy, Which to Rotate6 min
- How to Choose a Leather Belt: Width, Buckle, and Hide6 min
- Black Belt vs Brown Belt: Which Colour, How Many, When to Break6 min
- How to Match Belt and Shoes: Colour, Shine, and Width6 min
- Cap-Toe vs Plain-Toe: The Seam That Sets Formality6 min
- Monk Strap vs Oxford: Buckles, Formality, and Fit6 min
- Loafers With or Without Socks: Season, Skin, and the Office6 min
- When to Wear Brogues: Quarter, Semi, Full, and Longwing6 min
- Dark Navy vs Charcoal Suit: Which Colour Does More Work6 min
- Single-Breasted vs Double-Breasted: Buttons, Overlap, and Shoulder6 min
- Peak Lapel vs Notch Lapel: Width, Formality, and Jacket Type6 min
- How a Suit Should Fit in the Shoulder: Seam, Pad, and Divot6 min
- How Long Should Suit Trousers Be: Hem, Break, and Cuff6 min
- Break in Trousers Explained: Slight, None, Full, and the Vamp6 min
- How to Choose Suit Fabric Weight: Grams, Super Numbers, and Seasons6 min
- Tropical Wool vs Fresco: Open Weave, High Twist, Summer Suits6 min
- When to Wear a Flannel Suit: Weight, Season, and Crease6 min
- Knit Tie vs Silk Tie: When the Square Bottom Wins6 min
- How to Fold a Pocket Square: Puff, TV Fold, and When to Stop6 min
- How to Wear a Waistcoat: Length, Buttons, and the Watch6 min
- Three-Piece Suit Rules: When the Waistcoat Earns the Cloth6 min
- How to Wear an Overshirt: As Shirt, as Jacket, as Neither6 min
- Chore Coat vs Overshirt: Pockets, Cloth, and Jacket Duty6 min
- Field Jacket vs Bomber: Length, Pockets, and What Goes Under6 min
- Peacoat vs Overcoat: Length, Buttons, and What Fits Over a Suit6 min
- How to Wear a Trench Coat: Length, Belt, and the Suit Test6 min
- Selvedge Jeans for Men: The ID, the Weight, and the First Pair6 min
- Raw Denim First Pair: Weight, Soak, and the Six-Month Stiffness6 min
- How to Cuff Jeans: Single, Double, Height, and When to Hem Instead6 min
- Chinos Colour Order to Buy: Navy, Stone, Olive, Then Stop6 min
- Grey Trousers vs Khaki: Wool, Cotton, and the Blazer Test6 min
- White Sneakers with a Suit: When the Pair Is Clean Enough6 min
- Brown Shoes with a Navy Suit: How Dark, Which Last, Which Belt6 min
- Black Tie vs a Dark Suit: When Navy Is Not Evening Dress6 min
- Double Monk vs Single Monk Straps: Which One First6 min
- Merino vs Cotton T-Shirt: Which Fabric for Daily Wear6 min
- How to Choose a Belt Size: Measure the Jeans, Not Your Waist6 min
